Klemen Premrl
Age: 33
Education: Forestry techincian
Current status: Working in architect bureau / studying economy at the University of Ljubljana
Years of climbing: 20
LABEL CREW STATUS: ICE CLIMBING GUIDE AND INSTRUCTOR
Klemen first tied to a climbing rope at the age of twelve. Two years later he and his friends were among the youngest climbers in Slovenia manage to climb 7c. After this short period of sport climbing he started to climb in bigger walls. By the age of sixteen he climbed several routes in Julian Alps and Italian Dolomites, both in winter and summer conditions.
Soon, Klemen found ice climbing as most joyful art of climbing. At that time he started to climb ice continuously. At the beginning he climbed almost all the hardest ice falls in Slovenia and some hard ice climbs in Italy, Austria and France. In 1997 he went to Canada, searching for some hard ice climbs. He climbed several routes up two WI 6+. At the end of his climbing trip he climbed Raptide WI 7, which was the hardest ice climb done by Slovenian climbers.
Five years ago he introduced a new style of climbing to Slovenia: He opened first modern mixed routes an started to train drytooling purposely, at that time Klemen started to compete in ice climbing world cup. He and his friend Aljaľ were the only two Slovenian climbers in the IWC world cup.
Besides competing Klemen did a lot of alpine ice and mix climbing. He competed some hard modern and some classic routes in the Mont Blanc range. In 2002 he went to Canada again, he climbed some hard ice, mix and alpine routes, also he opened some new lines there and he participated on Festiglace and on Quebec ice climbing world cup.
Results:
KLEMEN PREMRL HAS PROVEN TO BE
ONE OF THE STRONGEST ICE CLIMBERS IN THE WORLD.
Read a short list of his ascents:
Ice ascents:
Riptide, WI 7, 220m, Rocky Mountains, Canada
French Reality, WI 6+, 250m, Rocky Mountains, Canada
Replicant, WI 6+, 180m, Rocky Mountains, Canada
Pom d'or,WI 6, 450m, Quebec, Canada
Lambada, WI 6, 60m, Kranjska gora, Slovenia, 2.ascent
Nirvana, WI 6, 150m, Logarska dolina, Slovenia, 2.ascent
Beam me up, Scotty, WI 6, 150m, Prisojnijk, 1.ascent
Fulova sveča, WI 6, 300m, Prisojnik, Slovenia, 1.ascent
Kacempoh W1 6, 100m, Slovenia
Lira di Beppe, WI 6, 300m, Val Daone, Italy
Repentance WI 6, 220m, Aosta, Italy
Mixed ascents:
Kost za glodanje, M7, Prisojnik, Slovenia, first modern mix in SLO, 1 ascent
Trije zbegani dnevi: M7+, Martuljek, Slovenia, second modern mix in SLO
Twilight, M8, Pont Rouge, Canada,1. ascent
A New Hope, M10+, Dolina Dunje, Italy
Capitan Hook M 10, Valsevaranche, Italy
Fly in the wind M10+ Val di Landro, Italy
Matador M11, Kandersteg, Suisse
Alpine winter ascents:
Comino - Grassi, AI 4, 1000m, Aguille Verte, France
Matching Scar AI 6, M6+ 250m, Mt. du Gros Bras,Canada
Guliver, AI 6, M6, 250m, Mt. du Gros Bras,Canada
Pinnochio AI 6, M6 450m, Mt. Blanc du Tacul, France
Scotch on the rocks, AI 6, M7 450m, Mt. Blanc du Tacul, France
Gulot du Erik, AI 6, M7, 650m, Ag. du Tacul, France
Vertigo World A14,M6, 650m, BGN- Vrtaca, slovenia 1 ascent
Competitions:
Salomon Ice adventure 99, Pitzal, Austria, 13th place
Kirov Ice Championship 99, Russia, 9th place
Ice World Cup 2000, Pitztal, Austria, 9th place
Ice World Cup 2000 , Kirov, Russia, 8th place
Ice world cup 2001, Saas-fee, Suisse, 12th place
Ice world cup 2001, Kirov, Russia, 9th place
Ice world cup 2002, Quebec, Canada 11th place
Ice World cup 2003, Sass-Fee, Suisse 5th place
Winner of SLO ice climbing cup 2005/06
Film about Andraľ Anderle and Klemen Premrl, Ice, Rock and Steel, was presented on different TV stations, and on several alpine film festivals...
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